Tuesday, August 11, 2009

The Ocean and Surfing is a huge part of my life!



Since I was 13 the ocean and the sport of surfing has been a tremendous part of our families lives.
We are not alone in this feeling ,but it is so strong sometimes that it feels like we are.
When in or near the ocean I feel whole and complete .
I would say ,and people look at me funny when I say this ,that the ocean is my church or my religion.
I truly believe that God is nature ,and so when we are in nature or being part of it we are as close to him or his presence as we can be.
Just as the hiker and or mountain climber or river rafter feels as he communes with nature, so I feel when I am in the ocean.
It heals the body and the mind.
Mental clarity seems to come each and every time I am in the water ,and problems that seemed so large seem to be solved, or at least not as insurmountable.
It probably sounds trite or corney ,but it is true for me.
We come from the ocean it feeds us ,and we can return to it and feel comfortable.
Oh well enough of the heavy stuff.
Time to go check the surf.

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